Alternatively titled- MY TRIP TO HAKONE!
Hanging around Tokyo for the week was obviously not going to be boring, but I really did want to take the opportunity to get out of the bustling city for a little while. So it was decided rather last minute that I’d go on a nice little grandma getaway with the wife (my roommate Callum) to Hakone.
Hakone is only a few hours out of Tokyo by bus but is a completely different world. Everything is a little slower, a little more relaxed, and absolutely overflowing with greenery. It’s a pretty famous mountainous town popular for lots of onsens (bath houses) and is a popular getaway spot. Although maybe not for foreigners, because although we stand out a bit in the city, people were THRILLED to see us in Hakone. They were pointing and gasping and waving through passing train windows, I felt very celebrity.
I mentioned that this was a “grandma vacation”, because that’s really the best term to describe every aspect of the trip. Callum and I are grandmas, and everything about the trip was grandma- nice, relaxed, slow, and peaceful. For example, after taking a train to Odawara, we got on the local grandma train like through Hakone. It was the slowest moving train I’ve ever been on, and moved through gorgeous scenery (although we were a bit early in the season for the famous hydrengas).
We finally got to the end of the line, and opted not to take the cable car further up the steepest part of the mountain and to walk up to our onsen.
Fun story about finding our onsen, though: Websites didn’t have the right address. The site Callum booked our room on had an address, of course, but when we tried to open the link it was invalid. So we used some other sites, which had our onsen’s name attached to different buildings. See below: TripAdvisor shows the building clearly. We go to it, are confused by the exterior not looking like the photos on the booking site, and lo google maps reveals that it is not in fact the onsen but a landscaping store.
And it wasn’t just TripAdvisor that had a wrong address. This actually happened three times, walking around the mountain with our heavy bags until we finally found it. The real address on google maps wasn’t in English so it took us a while to figure it out. But at last, we made it!
Now to be sure, this was not the most high class establishment in the world. We booked last minute for Golden Week and there wasn’t a lot of options available in our price range. Callum was convinced the place was haunted because the hallways were a little cold and the lighting was, admittedly, very murder-y. But I loved it.
We got a traditional Japanese-style room, which was actually enormous. There was a nice entrance area connecting to a large bathroom, toilet, and closet, followed by the incredibly spacious main tatami room.
Beyond the sliding screens we had a cute little reading nook and a nice balcony.
There was also a maybe not so traditional television in the room, so we spent some time being baffled by Japanese variety shows.
And also the balcony view was lovely.
And of course, the hotel had small public baths! Both times I went down I was astonishingly the only person there. Since there were no strange naked ladies and only a naked Katherine, I could shamelessly take my phone in to snap pictures without feeling like a criminal.
The indoor baths
and the (much preferred) outdoor bath
The onsen was SUPER relaxing and nice. There’s something to be said about open, mountain air bathing. And the men’s bath was just over the wall, so Callum and I could almost hold a conversation yelling back and forth at each other (but mostly we just relaxed in peace). We also had great timing for private bathing- Sunday and Monday were quiet and deserted, but by Tuesday when we checked out the place got really busy.
We were pleasantly surprised to discover that our booking included dinners and breakfasts at the onsen! (Shows how on the ball we are). The first night we got a gorgeous spread of tempura, sashimi, and the makings for sukiyaki. When we arrive the waiters light the fire of the little burner to boil the broth, and we put the big plate of veggies and meat into it to cook and it’s GORGEOUS. The second night we had a very similar spread but with shabushabu as the main dish.
The breakfast spread was also quite similar. I was never in it enough in the morning to remember to take a picture, but it involved grilled fish and pickled vegetables, a little japanese style omelette and some mystery mash. Eating a lot first thing in the morning is a little hard for me (breakfast was at 7:00) and Callum doesn’t eat seafood so I regret to admit that we didn’t eat a ton of the breakfast. However, while we were wandering the mountain looking for our hotel we passed a great looking cafe that we ended up going to for breakfast both days. We appropriately dubbed the cafe “Grandma’s House”.
There were puppies who lived there. PUPPIES.
It’s actual name was paSeo, and it was the most beautiful little place. It was a cafe/flower shop, so behind the balcony with the doggies was a huge open window looking in at the room with all the flowers and a friendly lady cutting and arranging them. Behind that was the little cafe.
Everything was beautiful and the lighting was so pristine I took a ton of pictures of food and coffee.
We got the breakfast spread that came with coffee or tea, potato soup, freshly baked bread, sausages and eggs. It was perfection.
There was a lunch menu as well that we didn’t really get to try. We also discovered on the last day that paSeo owns the neighboring building and is a B&B. So I’ll be back. (Mom? Kathryn? Chelsea? Anyone else who’d like to come visit me? We’re going to Hakone.)
All the little streets around our hotel on the mountain were adorable and lush, and we enjoyed walking around as well as riding the cable car up and down the mountain.
We took the car down to explore the town at the bottom of the mountain on Saturday, and it was the perfect little Grandma-town.
Gnomes = Grandma Town
This place was playing “You’ve Got a Friend In Me” really loudly as we walked by, which was amazing. We didn’t go in though, because there was a highly acclaimed gyouza restaurant that we had our hearts set on.
It did not disappoint.
How whimsical is this place?! All the staff seemed to be little old men and the decor was stunning.
Oh and the gyouza were phenomenal.
Since we went down the mountain on Saturday, on Sunday we tried to go over the mountain. Unfortunately, there was some volcanic activity going on and part of the ropeway was shut down.
A helpful diorama explaining the situation.
But we managed! We were put on a bus to go around the mountain, which was a lovely ride, and then rode the ropeway around the safe parts of the track.
There was a very nice view of the lake and the ghostly Mt. Fuji, which is not at all well captured by taking photos with an iPhone through tinted windows.
And that’s about the gist of our trip! Lots of leisurely strolling, lots of eating, lots of lounging, lots of reading. You know, grandma stuff. It was lovely and relaxing and I left feeling very refreshed. We took a local bus through the mountains and a few tiny villages engulfed in forest to get back to Odawara, and I just sat listening to “Rivers and Roads” on repeat feeling magical. Green Japan is really, really something.
The one other big thing we did on our trip was see the Hakone Open-Air Museum, which was absolutely astounding and I’ll make a post dedicated to that with all my pictures next!